The textile industry is made up of all sorts of manufacturers, each with their own focus and approach. On one end of the spectrum are smaller mills that operate under short-term goals, driven by immediate client needs, market trends and the requirement to turn a profit. Conversely, some larger, vertically integrated manufacturers may focus more on long-term, strategic engagement with their clients, says Rogier van Mazijk, Fund Manager at the Textile Innovation Fund.
A few decades ago, it was common for textile mills to design collections and present them to retailers. The final decision still rested with the retailer or brand, but suppliers had much more autonomy before the rapid globalisation of the textile sector after the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing expired on 1 January 2005.