Hard Talk: True blue

Thursday, 05 December 2024

Why worst-case data is better than average

Unless you’ve had your head in the sand for the past couple of years, you’ll have noticed that the world of textiles has suddenly become dominated by data – or more to the point, the lack of reliable data. There are now many well-meaning scores,…

Wednesday, 04 December 2024

Weak links put EU textile recycling at risk

As the textile industry grapples with growing waste, the UK and EU textile recycling sectors faces unprecedented challenges, leading key players like Soex to succumb to insolvency just when they are needed the most. This market unpredictability…

Friday, 18 October 2024

Lenzing boss aims to navigate economic headwinds

YORK – As he eases into his new role as the CEO of Lenzing, Rohit Aggarwal explains that despite market volatility and uncertainty in the textile sector, he welcomes more stringent environmental regulations, saying that textile-to-textile recycling…

Wednesday, 09 October 2024

Traceable linen - bast of both worlds

With more brands sourcing linen in their spring collections this year, causing prices to triple in recent months, the European flax sector sees opportunities to offer fully traceable linen fabrics free from contamination with hemp or other bast…

Monday, 07 October 2024

Bearing the brunt - Myanmar's garment workers

A combination of stagnant wages, soaring inflation and tumbling exchange rates has left garment workers in crisis-torn Myanmar facing huge challenges to meet even their most basic needs. The minimum wage for has been 4,800 kyat a day since 2018. The…

Thursday, 03 October 2024

Recycled polyester innovation in good shape

North Carolina-based fibre innovator Unifi took some fibre industry experts by surprise when it launched a new 100% recycled filament polyester yarn with 50% textile content – a straightforward replacement for virgin polyester immediately available…

Wednesday, 02 October 2024

From fast fashion – to immediate fashion

INDIA - Tech-driven ‘quick commerce’ is taking India by storm and with huge growth expected, western fashion brands are said to be in talks with platforms driving the immediate delivery of newly ordered goods. Gen Z and millennials in India’s top…

Tuesday, 01 October 2024

Why the electrification of textile manufacturing needs more thought

YORK – The recent call by Fashion Revolution to rapidly electrify textile manufacturing operations through the implementation of renewables needs more careful consideration to avoid unintended rises in CO2 emissions. After several subjective…

Monday, 23 September 2024

Aii and ZDHC plan CO2 and water guidelines

GLOBAL - Leading industry bodies Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) are working on benchmark guidelines for both CO2 emissions and water use in garment and textile manufacturing facilities. Aii and…

Thursday, 19 September 2024

Californian bill leads the charge on EPR

SACRAMENTO - The Sunshine State is poised to introduce a new Responsible Textile Recovery Act to combat unnecessary waste and promote the textile circular economy through new statutory measures. Regulators in California point to figures outlining…

Friday, 23 August 2024

Difficult year for Nike’s sustainability goals

BEAVERTON - Amidst multiple challenges, 2024 hasn’t been favourable for Nike – staff layoffs, a sales downturn and a direct-to-consumer shift leading to a pending securities fraud class action lawsuit. In a parallel vein, the world’s most renowned…

Thursday, 15 August 2024

Better Cotton defends physical traceability system

GENEVA - The Earthsight NGO, which earlier this year raised concerns linking cotton certified by Better Cotton with deforestation in Brazil, recently fired another shot across the initiative's bow. Quoting an unnamed whistleblower, Earthsight…

Thursday, 08 August 2024

Forward thinking - researching future fashion

LONDON - From exploring the use of robotics to support a re-shored UK apparel manufacturing sector to establishing a British textile recycling industry, the Circular Fashion Innovation Network (CFIN) could not be accused of a lack of ambition. Part…

Wednesday, 07 August 2024

Cash wave needed to scale textile solutions

LONDON - The idea behind investing for impact is to deliver positive returns to an investor’s portfolio while at the same time improving society. And while different from funds that go directly to innovators developing new environmental technology,…

Monday, 29 July 2024

Reversible polyester dyeing uses CO2

LEEDS – A new process for dyeing polyester is said to be more sustainable, compatible with existing machinery and even reversible to facilitate textile-to-textile recycling. This process, billed as CO2-mediated switchable solubility dyeing aims to…

Monday, 22 July 2024

Textiles to be hit by deforestation law

BRUSSELS - The EU’s EUDR deforestation regulation is set to greatly impact the global textiles industry by demanding detailed analysis of viscose and lyocell supply chains caught up by the new law – with new calls for it to be delayed. Andrew Vaux…

Friday, 19 July 2024

Cotton and climate - feeling the heat?

In the second of his series of articles on how climate change is set to impact the cotton industry, cotton, and agriculture our correspondent Simon Ferrigno looks at data, legislation and mitigation. We are now as little as five years away from…

Friday, 14 June 2024

Good Fashion Fund shares lessons learned

Billed as a first of its kind impact investment fund, the Good Fashion Fund was launched to provide finance for disruptive technologies in textile and garment factories in Bangladesh and India. Three years on, the partnership of the Laudes…

Tuesday, 11 June 2024

Social dialogue in the global garment industry

As a European-born consultant deeply engaged in labour rights advocacy, I've grappled with the harsh realities of coloniality's impact on workers. Marginalised communities face systemic relegation to the lowest labour hierarchies, perpetuating…

Monday, 10 June 2024

Textile recycling - rip it up and start again

I’m a child of the 1970’s and, whilst I can’t claim to have grown up in poverty, I was brought up to understand the importance of product longevity and the avoidance of waste. Recently I watched my football team, wearing a football shirt that I…

Tuesday, 04 June 2024

Impact per wear - fashion's forgotten metric?

Mass retail and fast fashion, in particular, have introduced a new dynamic over the last few decades, while the industry’s latest game-changers are social shopping and ultra-fast online fashion. Some newcomers from Asia have quickly established…

Tuesday, 04 June 2024

SBTs for Nature - year one progress report

One year ago, the University of Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership (CISL), the Fashion Pact (TFP) and Conservation International mapped out how the fashion industry could implement its first Science-Based Targets for Nature. Their…

Friday, 31 May 2024

Is cotton coping with climate change?

Cotton and agriculture correspondent Simon Ferrigno examines how the cotton industry is adapting to the impacts of climate change in the first of a new series. Pakistan recently warned of “heavy loss of life” due to glacial melting . In Brazil,…

Wednesday, 17 April 2024

Tackling the textile-to-textile recycling challenge

As a new Textile Exchange report calls for an end to the use of both virgin synthetic textiles and polyester recycled from plastic bottles by the end of the decade, we spoke to three textile-to-textile recycling pioneers about their ambitions. All…

Thursday, 11 April 2024

Textile innovation - when good ideas go bad...

Phil Patterson argues that textile industry eco-innovators selling ineffective, badly marketed, or over-priced technology to shopkeepers is a badly flawed business model that works for no-one. It’s incredibly pleasing there’s so much work being done…

Tuesday, 09 April 2024

Heads above the parapet in Myanmar

Journalists working for the Myanmar Labour News (MLN) website - which reports on conditions from inside the country's factories - recently revealed that reports of worker abuses had almost tripled in a year. In its annual report, MLN said it had…

Monday, 08 April 2024

Cellulosic fibre suppliers take stock

Lenzing has paused production of its lyocell-based Tencel Refibra fibres from cotton waste due to a shortage of high-quality recycled pulp. This is a good example of how the infrastructure for the collection, sorting, and re-processing of…

Friday, 05 April 2024

Due diligence - reversing the race to the bottom

Alexander Kohnstamm, executive director of Fair Wear, on why the textile sector urgently needs mandatory, OECD-based due diligence. The long-negotiated EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) was put in jeopardy at the very last…

Thursday, 04 April 2024

Impact per wear - forgotten fashion metric?

The relevance of impact per wear is increasing as faster fashion accelerates and more clothing is discarded earlier. Investor analyst Rogier van Mazijk takes a look at how and why this useful metric is often overlooked. The significant changes that…

Wednesday, 03 April 2024

What's really going on in Chile's Atacama Desert?

Our correspondent Lavinia Muth visited Chile to report on the world’s biggest mountain of fashion waste but came away with a different perspective – and a very personal story. Reports of an ever-growing mountain of textile waste in Chile's Atacama…

Tuesday, 02 April 2024

EU fabric suppliers: cautiously optimistic

MUNICH – While fabric suppliers at the Performance Days event in Munich remained cautious about sustainable innovation in the current uncertain economic climate, many remain optimistic that regulation around waste and the circular economy will still…

Thursday, 28 March 2024

Bharat Tex - India's largest global textile event

Bringing together 3,500 exhibitors from across the entire value chain under one roof for the first time, the theme of Bharat Tex 2024 emphasised India’s capability to provide end-to-end textile solutions. Spread across nearly two million square feet…

Thursday, 28 March 2024

Tracking sustainability through the supply chain

Despite ongoing political wrangling, the European Union’s (EU) Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) looks like it will finally make it into the statute book - albeit with significant concessions. But what’s this new directive…

Wednesday, 27 March 2024

Are textile innovators hitting the wrong target?

Are fashion brands really the best customers for textile innovators, asks Katherine Albertson, a former project manager with a US bio-based materials pioneer. Renewcell’s declaration of bankruptcy was sad, but hardly shocking. That appears to be the…

Wednesday, 27 March 2024

Fashion’s future fragmented fabric landscape

Last week’s Fashion for Good event in The Netherlands became a frontline for contrasting visions and opinions about the future of existing and next-generation materials used in the fashion sector. Will there be a return to natural fibres?…

Tuesday, 26 March 2024

Renewcell - when risk doesn’t equal reward

With the deadline for offers for bankrupt textile-to-textile recycling pioneer Renewcell less than 48 hours away, Ecotextile News editor John Mowbray argues that the Swedish company's collapse was down to a failure by brands, investors and the…

Monday, 25 March 2024

Haute couture capital sets sights on fast fashion

Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, co-founder of the 2BPolicy consultancy, considers the ambitions of Paris to move on from being the capital of fashion to become a beacon for fashion legislation. For nearly two decades, France has been toying with the idea…

Tuesday, 13 February 2024

Spilling the dirt on compostable stretch denim

Italian textile manufacturer Candiani has shared details of an experiment to show off the compostable qualities of what it claims is the world's first biodegradable stretch denim. A visit to his local butcher in Milan gave Alberto Candiani the idea…

Monday, 12 February 2024

California’s climate of disclosure

With California's newly-implemented climate disclosure laws said to be the most wide-ranging introduced so far, we take a look at what they will mean for businesses. There’s no doubt as to the alarming impact of climate change in the US state – with…

Saturday, 10 February 2024

Why decarbonisation depends on data

HONG KONG – With 2024 already here, it’s too late for any one organisation to roll out a strategy that can guarantees the whole textile sector can reduce its carbon emissions by 45% in the next seven years – a figure called for by scientists if the…

Friday, 09 February 2024

Fashion’s fake GHG emission claims

Lutz Walter, secretary general of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles, outlines why the claim that the fashion industry is to blame for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions is wrong – and why this matters. Four years after…

Thursday, 08 February 2024

'Industry first' microplastics test developed

Italian textile manufacturer Aquafil has developed what it claims is the first methodology to precisely measure the quality and quantity of microplastics released in the textile industry. The company says the method, developed in partnership with…

Wednesday, 07 February 2024

New tool counts textile process CO2 emissions

A new tool from the Apparel Impact Institute will be able to help calculate the cumulative CO2 emissions for each process and sub-process from textile manufacturing – an industry first. On the 22nd February, we will broadcast the first of a 3-part…

Tuesday, 16 January 2024

Brands' integrity on energy rated 'shallow'

BERLIN – The integrity of the renewable electricity commitments of fashion giants H&M, Zara owner Inditex, Nike, Gap and Lululemon has been found wanting by a new report from the New Climate Institute. The non-profit assessed brands' renewable…

Tuesday, 02 January 2024

Regenerative cotton – don't believe all the hype

Simon Ferrigno argues that regenerative cotton is about local solutions, designed by and with local people, and sold at a price that they can live on. Not a system where cotton producers are constantly observed by new digital tools and data owners,…

Thursday, 21 December 2023

Expert panel talks ESG in fashion

With environmental, social and governance (ESG) investment currently in the doldrums, a panel of experts explain what this could mean for the fashion and retail sectors after its politicisation in the USA; and after UK investors shy away from this…

Tuesday, 19 December 2023

Blanket PFAS ban poses textiles conundrum

The world of eco-textiles is littered with issues that are not clear cut, where there are pluses and minuses, and where compromise rules as stakeholders seek a ‘least bad outcome’ or a reduced environmental impact. But, a blanket ban on PFAS would…

Monday, 11 December 2023

Back to the future for cotton

David Styles speaks to a firm that works with the European Space Agency, Cotton made in Africa and a geospatial technology specialist to explore why satellite imagery is being used to remotely monitor cotton crops. Is this the next phase of the…

Thursday, 07 December 2023

GFA Monitor - many voices, one mission

DUBAI - Launched at COP28 climate summit, the 2023 GFA Monitor is the second edition of a multi-agency report from the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) that aims to combine the expertise of leading industry bodies across the fashion and textiles…

Wednesday, 06 December 2023

New report links global brands to forced labour

SHEFFIELD - Thirty nine global brands and retailers are at "high risk" of selling goods with exposure to Uyghur forced labour onto the European market, according to a new study. The report, entitled ‘Tailoring Responsibility: Tracing Apparel Supply…