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Zurich-based NGO Public Eye has completed a second investigation into Shein supply chains, alleging workers at some factories supplying the company are denied certain rights and expected to complete gruelling 75-hour working weeks.

Despite this, Public Eye's textile expert David Hachfeld believes the wider fashion industry cannot simply blame these business models exclusively on those at the latest frontier of ultra fast fashion such as Shein and Temu.

Decades of insufficient or non-existent regulation is, he argues, the biggest cause - and what allowed other big names like H&M, Boohoo and Zara to blaze the fast fashion trail.

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