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BBC Spotify episode questions fashion industry claims on garment production

LONDON – It's worth a listen. This 10 minute episode of 'More or Less: Behind the Statistics' ... finds that estimates of global production by fashion industry campaigners, celebrities, and even management consultancies such as McKinsey, which are regularly used to justify calls for industry circularity – are probably well wide of the mark.


One often repeated claim is that so much clothing has been made there's already enough tops, trousers, skirts and all the rest to clothe humanity for decades into the future.
However, it appears the sources for these claims could well be just as unreliable and opaque as some of the darkest corners of the textile supply chain itself.

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Former Nike sustainability chief joins biomaterials firm

The former head of Nike’s sustainability operations has joined alternative leather maker Uncaged, as it looks to get a manufacturing foothold in Asia.

Noel Kinder
Former Nike CSO, Noel Kinder will help to expand Asian operations.

A senior executive with 25 years of global experience at Nike, including as Chief Sustainability Officer, Kinder oversaw Nike’s environmental operations across 550 factories in 42 countries and drove collaboration with governments, NGOs, academia, and media to advance industry-wide sustainability practices.

Uncaged, which makes bio-based materials from a variety of plant-based sources that can be a substitute leather, says that Kinder’s knowledge of global manufacturing, particularly in Asia, aligns with its strategic plans to expand its production capabilities in the region.

Uncaged, which has previous experience in the fashion accessories and car upholstery sector, hopes Kinder’s appointment will help it drive its next phase of growth into footwear, a sector responsible for more than 50% of global leather consumption.

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Anger at US withdrawal from Paris Climate Agreement

Environmental campaigners were queuing up to condemn US president Donald Trump’s immediate decision to withdraw from the Paris Climate Agreement only hours after taking office.

The decision will setback global efforts to slow global warming within agreed limits and follows on from UK scientists saying earlier this week that atmospheric CO2 levels have now overtaken the targets set out by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) to limit global warming to 1.5C above pre-industrial levels.

Dr. Rachel Cleetus, the policy director and lead economist for the Climate and Energy Program at the Union of Concerned Scientists said,Withdrawing the United States from the Paris Agreement is a travesty,” saying it was a move in “clear defiance of scientific realities.”

Debbie Weyl, World Resources Institute acting director said, “On his first day back in the White House, President Trump is trying to turn back the clock on America’s clean energy leadership at the expense of American people and their health,” saying that pledging to roll back climate policies that have created more than 400,000 good-paying American jobs will only hurt workers and our economy.”

She remain defiant, adding that “The clean energy revolution will continue regardless of who is in the White House.”

A UNEP report published in 2023 claimed the world would exceed temperature rises of up to 2.9C above pre-industrial levels without urgent action.

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UK initiative launches survey on textile waste and overconsumption

Industry stakeholders are invited to give feedback to the Tex

WRAP Survey
WRAP says the survey takes 10 minutes.

tiles2030 initiative run by WRAP in the UK, which aims to help the textile sector transition to more sustainable and circular practices.

It notes that 336,000 tonnes of clothing are sent to UK landfill or incineration annually and is now seeking industry insight into how clothing and textile overproduction is managed.

To give feedback, users can take a 10-minute survey commissioned by Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, to have a say and inform WRAPs work with UK policymakers.

The survey closes on Friday 31st January.

Data collected will be aggregated and anonymised, and will inform a report that will be published on its website.

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Multi-disciplinary collaboration could help tackle microplastic pollution

A new study says that microplastic pollution can be tackled with a combination of interdisciplinary techniques, named the ‘quintuple helix’ framework, to contribute to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.

The framework positions the environment as an active stakeholder and brings together the roles of four other key stakeholders for knowledge exchange and policy creation. These are academia, governments, industry, and civil society organisations.

A European Union (EU) statement, discussing the study, says: “The aim is to produce policy that addresses the multifaceted nature of the microplastic problem with a holistic solution that has buy-in from stakeholders.”

The quintuple helix model brings together five key stakeholders, including the environment itself.
Image: Melodena Stephens Balakrishnan

The study, published in Science of The Total Environment, says that microplastic poses severe threats to both ecosystems and human health. It necessitates collaborative and interdisciplinary research, as well as public awareness campaigns.

And it says effective policies for microplastic management could include banning single-use plastics, enhancing waste management systems, and adopting extended producer responsibility (EPR) frameworks.

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Open letter urges EU to add plastics to ESPR legislation

Campaigners from the Rethink Plastic Alliance have penned an open letter to the European Commission urging it to include the plastics and polymers in to the forthcoming first Working Plan under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). 

In a letter dated 16th January, Justine Maillot, coordinator, at the Break Free From Plastic Europe & the Rethink Plastic Alliance says that plastic in products has an outsized impact on human health and the environment and notes it was included in the JRC’s (Joint Research Centre) shortlist for intermediate products.

“Yet the final text of the ESPR does not list plastics and polymers as one of the suggested sectors for intermediate product priorities. There are several reasons to include plastics and polymers, not the least because two of the three top final products identified by the JRC (textiles and tyres) would benefit from upstream ecodesign measures on plastics and polymers.

The ESPR, which entered into force on 18 July 2024, is the cornerstone of the Commission’s approach to more environmentally sustainable and circular products.

The full communique can be found HERE.

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